><< These days Everest is attempted by rich mountaineers and their
>guides. While the guides may have heaps of experience, their
>patrons are not "the most experienced" by a long shot. Your
>example might have been better using K2 which is a real kush
>(as in Hindu Kush). >>
>Statistical analyses of Everest deaths seem to show that they are
>depressingly at the same rate, regardless of prior experience, including
>prior experience of climbing Everest.
That's because the guide has a moral obligation to help the clients off the mountain when danger strikes. When people get killed, it's usually the weakest client(s) in the party and the guide with him that perish.
If guides didn't have this obligation (i.e. they were Tarsh Exiles*), then more people will get killed on Everest but the guides will have better survival chances.
The situation's further skewed by the impetus to climb Everest at all costs because if you miss the chance now, you'll have to wait a couple of years before you get another chance (because of the waiting list). Whereas a party of heroes can afford to wait until the danger has passed before continuing.
*avoiding RW commentary and focusing on glorantha. From the Narrator's PoV, the best type of guide is Alferd G. Packer.
--Peter Metcalfe
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